D200 IR conversion - pictures

[stenrasmussen]

Here are the pics showing how I took my D200 apart to fit a new IR filter.
Update: On re-assembly, put the base plate back after the back is put in place. Also, when putting the back plate back, make sure not to stretch the 3 flat cables (attached to the back plate) so much so they will be pulled out of their main circuit board sockets.

[stenrasmussen]

second batch of pics

[stenrasmussen]

3rd
Update: The two screws indicated in the top right photo can be left as they are. They are not needed removed to get base plate off.

[stenrasmussen]

4th

[stenrasmussen]

5th

[stenrasmussen]

6th and last.

[Vivek]

There are remarkable resemblances between a D80/D200.  These are a lot easier to work with (along with the D40/40x)
compared to the D70(s).

The AA/IR-cut filter also has remarkable similarities (D40x/D80/D200) in terms of their physical dimensions.

You do not need to worry about the stepped construction of the AA filter you replaced.

What is the thickness of the IR filter?  Is that a glass filter? 

(If that is the case, I find your glass cutting method, quite intriguing.  )

[annedi]

do you have to re-solder that lug ?

THANKS for these pix !! This is great. I might give this a try as the cost of conversion
by Life Pixel and MaxMax has become very steep.

[stenrasmussen]

There are remarkable resemblances between a D80/D200.  These are a lot easier to work with (along with the D40/40x)
compared to the D70(s).

The AA/IR-cut filter also has remarkable similarities (D40x/D80/D200) in terms of their physical dimensions.

You do not need to worry about the stepped construction of the AA filter you replaced.

What is the thickness of the IR filter?  Is that a glass filter? 

(If that is the case, I find your glass cutting method, quite intriguing.  )

The thickness is roughly 2.5mm whereas the original is ca. 2mm.
It is a glass filter. The filter I cut for my D2H is plastic and after testing the glass one in my D200 I actually prefer the way the plastic filters the light (slightly into the visible spectrum).
 

[stenrasmussen]

do you have to re-solder that lug ?

THANKS for these pix !! This is great. I might give this a try as the cost of conversion
by Life Pixel and MaxMax has become very steep.

Yep, re-soldering is needed. Tis a breeze to do though. Just touch the solder with a well heated soldering-iron and bob's yer uncle!
Due to the stepped sides of the original filter I might go ahead and order an IR filter from Life Pixel. Then again I might cut a plastic filter to shape (with stepped sides) and re-fit the filter.

[Dave Abbott]

Excellent illustration of D200 surgery, Sten.

Thanks for making such an effort - I'm sure it will encourage many to give it a try.

If I may add some notes regarding my experience of doing this mod. :-

1)  Screw management is imperative - there are many different types, diameters and lengths involved
     Get them mixed up and you will be screwed !
     My solution was to print pics of each operation and fix small blobs of Blu-Tak or similar at each screw position
     on the image, the individual screws can then be retained in each location until reassembly.

2)  Use a proper JIS screwdriver - Phillips or Posidrive drivers can damage Japanese screwheads and make life miserable.

3)  Be particularly careful with the CF to PCB FPC (Flexible Printed Cable) . This is the one at the bottom right.
     It has a sharp 90 deg. bend and is prone to fracture.

Regarding the stepped Filter window - I bought a clear "lifepixel" filter and it had no steps!

btw - the original filter is 2.20 mm thick. Lifepixel is only 1.30 mm thick.

Put that in your pipe and smoke it!

[stenrasmussen]

Excellent illustration of D200 surgery, Sten.

Thanks for making such an effort - I'm sure it will encourage many to give it a try.

If I may add some notes regarding my experience of doing this mod. :-

1)  Screw management is imperative - there are many different types, diameters and lengths involved
     Get them mixed up and you will be screwed !
     My solution was to print pics of each operation and fix small blobs of Blu-Tak or similar at each screw position
     on the image, the individual screws can then be retained in each location until reassembly.

2)  Use a proper JIS screwdriver - Phillips or Posidrive drivers can damage Japanese screwheads and make life miserable.

3)  Be particularly careful with the CF to PCB FPC (Flexible Printed Cable) . This is the one at the bottom right.
     It has a sharp 90 deg. bend and is prone to fracture.

Regarding the stepped Filter window - I bought a clear "lifepixel" filter and it had no steps!

btw - the original filter is 2.20 mm thick. Lifepixel is only 1.30 mm thick.

Put that in your pipe and smoke it!

Thanks!
I fully support your suggestestions - especially the scew manangement.
Overall I'd say that if one proceeds with care the process can be done by almost anyone.
When I operated my D2H for the second time I used the stovetop as a work bench and put the extractor vent on full blast to keep dust away. With the D200 I just used the kitchen top and that worked well.

The tricky bit...not that tricky really ...is to keep the side of the ir-filter that faces the sensor and the sensor itself free from dust until the ir-filter is in position over the sensor. A rocket blower, a loupe and some careful removal of any dust particles will ensure "close-enough-to-dust-free-and-ready-for-assembly" situation.
I am not too concerned if I should trap one or two small particles as I just remove these during post-processing.

Oh, forgot to mention, to prevent static charge from your body ruining the electronics I drained any charge simply by touching the kitchen sink/tap every now and then.
The proper way of doing it is to get one of those wrist-things with a wire that clips on to something grounded.

[Chris101]

Thanks for posting this sequence Sten!  This puts Nikon Gear at the fore front of the conversion pack.  Theose who know how, need to promote this thread, as it IS sota!

[stenrasmussen]

As seen in the last picture I cut an old glass IR filter to fit. Now, having done more thinking and come to the conclusion I'll put another filter in. This time I'll do the same as for my D2H; install a filter from Edmund Optics. It allows a bit more visible light through but that is easily mananged in CS3. If I need a stronger filtration there is always the option of attaching an additional filter to the front of the lens.
Advantage is it is much thinner allowing a better fit under the black filter frame. It is also a breeze to cut with a fine metal saw. Will open the patient tonight and in due time I'll post pictures of the entire filter cutting/installment procedure.
Here's a link to the filter's worldwidewebhome:
http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlinecatalog/displayproduct.cfm?productID=1918

[stenrasmussen]

If you have already decided on the filter, there is no point in posting this.  The reason I asked about the filter thickness earlier relates to the filter placement and focus shift issues.

I think you would still run into problems regarding those with the Edmunds resin filter.

Sorry, I just thought I'd share my experiences and try and show more details on how the filter is fitted.
I will refrain from continuing this thread.
Regarding focus shift issues:
I don't see manual focussing as a problem at all. There will always be focus issues with IR unless focus calibration is done towards one specific lens only.

[Shane]

Thanks for taking the time to illustrate this procedure, I am sure many will appreciate it as do I. Please don't hesistate to continue posting about this topic or any similar experiments.

[Shane]

Use a proper JIS screwdriver - Phillips or Posidrive drivers can damage Japanese screwheads and make life miserable.

Can you suggest which JIS sizes to have available for this conversion?

[Dave Abbott]

Shane,

JIS Size "0" (2.5mm dia.) is perfect for all screws involved.

While you are shopping, get a size "00" (2mm dia.) as well - useful to have in your kit.

A tweezers with a long 45 or 90 deg. tip is useful for reinstalling the FPCs

[davidmacq]

Dang, much harder than d70/s. Just like a d80 almost. My d80 was dead after reassembly!

D70 still makes a lot of sense I think.

Side note. They replaced a couple of boards on my d80 for 150. Seems like doing anything to a d70 costs $200. Do they charge more at nikon usa to fix older out of production cameras? Seems maybe there is a $50 or $100 extra cost?