| 13 March 2010, 12:56:40 |
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Details of the 2010 Norwegian "Scavenger" tour can be found here. |
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First impressions
This is a small and compact design, considering we are talking about a 400mm lens on a FX body. It is also light for such a complex design which comprises of 17 elements, so handholding this compact long reach telephoto-zoom is not that painful, though I am of a large build, so I personally find no trouble carrying this lens when birding, though it will cause fatigue quite quickly especially when combined with a pro body which is recommended for balancing reasons and better AF performance. So it’s not big and heavy like the faster telephoto lenses (300mm f/2.8) but rather small and light similar to the AF 80-200mm f/2.8D. Plus we shouldn’t forget that this zoom is equivalent to a 120-600mm focal length on a DX format body.
Optical performance
The optical performance is great. Its sharp with hardly any noticeable distortion or flare and I don’t think you can find many zooms that would let you shoot against the sun with such performance, well maybe the last incarnation of the AF 80-200mm can. On the subject of flaring, if you are getting flare with your copy, I would suggest you clean your lens and remove any unnecessary filters from the front of it.
Bokeh
Although complex designs such as this 17-element zoom don’t help in the bokeh department, the OOF (out-of-focus) areas are portrayed with a nice, pleasant and smooth creamy effect that is very pleasing thanks in part to its incorporation of a rounded 9-bladed diaphragm.
Distortion
Distortion is usually a problem with wide angle lenses or for photographers shooting architecture, so I don’t think anyone considering this lens should worry about distortion. As I have already mentioned, I don’t shoot charts or go pixel-peeping, so as long as my photographs look pleasing, I’m happy. For my shooting style (nature & wildlife), this lens has no noticeable distortion.
Vignetting
On the subject of vignetting, the 80-400mm is surprisingly good when compared to my old AF 80-200mm f/2.8D lens which had noticeable light fall off toward the edges of the frame wide open and at f4. And this observation is based on the results from a full frame camera, so on a DX format camera the vignetting is a non-issue.
Sharpness
On the subject of sharpness I have a warning to pass along. If you are not getting sharp results from this lens, one reason is because your shutter speeds are too low. Another reason is discussed further down in the autofocusing section. Don’t think that VR means you can shoot this lens at ridiculously slow speeds. VR is for helping to stabilise camera movement and not for forgetting everything we learned with film and long lenses. Shutter speeds and good light are needed to get sharp results, and my god can this lens perform, delivering very good sharpness even wide open at 400mm. I do tend to close 1/3 or 2/3 of a stop if the light permits or even zoom back a little if the subject is large enough in the frame, not because my results otherwise would be soft or bad, but because those actions will help to gain a little more quality out of an already excellent optic. This lens can produce good results in any situation, but it excels at shooting static subjects that are well lit and are close to the lens.

Flycatcher
Nikon D200 & VR 80-400mm F/4,5-5,6D @ 400mm AF-C, f/8 @ 1/250s , +0,7EV, Auto (ISO 180)

Detail at 100%
VR technology
Most people are shooting wildlife with this lens, so VR is of little help, though a welcome addition. As mentioned before, VR is designed to compensate for camera movement. As such, it can not stabilize a moving subject. People need to understand this. Don’t be naïve and think that VR will produce sharp results on its own.
The best way to get the most out of this lens is to forget about its VR capabilities. You are shooting at 400mm (600mm on DX) and so should be trying to maximize your yield by aiming for the highest shutter speeds possible. Let VR work in the background, and it will do its part. Some inexperienced photographers, buy this lens and expect to be shooting birds handheld with shutter speeds of 1/60 sec. forget it!
If you want sharp results, you need to “continue” using long lens techniques, support yourself and camera as much as possible, aim for the highest speeds and just let the VR technology do its thing. This lens requires that you shoot 5-6 frames in succession so you can pick the best result. Some are usually soft or blurred looking, but then in the series you will find one or two that really pop. I often also vary my focus so as long as my subject permits, I fire off 5-6 frames and then refocus and shoot again. Although I have some very sharp results at some insanely slow shutter speeds, I usually try to stick with speeds of 1/200sec or faster on my D200. With a DX body the old rule of thumb says that a shutter close to 1/600sec is needed to get a chance at sharp results. Thankfully, most of the times, I end up with more sharp results to choose from and less to throw out.
Autofocusing
OK, up until now I haven’t really pointed out any of its negative points. One of those is its AF speed and AF acquisition. These are the biggest negative points of this lens though they can be overcome with a little finesse.
The lens reminds me of my beloved AF 80-200mm which was also a slow focusing lens. Not only are they both screwdriver type lenses, but the amount of travel that the mechanism has to traverse compared to other lenses, is of a quadruple measure. Nikon is forced to use low gearing so as to be able to move the heavy optics involved in this design. Hopefully, they will come up with a new design which will entail the movement of less glass, so as to release this zoom range with an AFS mechanism.
So the 80-400mm is a slow focusing lens. And having a slow aperture of f/5.6 @ 400mm doesn’t help much either when it comes to focusing accurately on the chosen subject. When you read the various post about softness, most of them really are referring to out-of-focus results which they interpret as unsharp. You need to secure a well focused subject before you can comment on sharpness, and quite often this lens will focus, stop and under closer inspection reveal an OOF image. This is why I tend to refocus often between bursts, in an attempt to increase my chances at getting a properly focused shot. Sometimes, I will even resort to manual focusing.
There are ways to improve its AF capabilities. One is to pre-focus so the AF will have less distance to travel and another is to use the focus range limiter switch. I am a bit puzzled as to why the limiting range is from 2.3m to just under 4 and then from 5 to infinity. I would have preferred an overlap such as 2.3m to 10m and from 7m to infinity.
Of course, another way to improve AF, is with the use of a pro body. Pro-calibre cameras such as the F5 and the D series offer greater torque from their AF motors compared to their smaller brothers like the Dx00 series cameras, so the autofocusing on the pro cameras can be expected to perform better and faster.
Cruising at 60kph
Nikon D200 & VR 80-400mm F/4,5-5,6D @ 400mm AF-C, f/8 @ 1/320s, ISO 250

From about 10 frames, in all focus was close and most were usable but only the last 3 were really good. This series doesn’t prove that this lens is good for sports. Its not! But it can under certain circumstances do action when needed. If you want a sports/action lens, look elsewhere.

This is the cleanest shot of that series. The rest aren’t that far from it.
With this lens, there is no need to switch from one of the AF modes to MF on the body. To quickly change from AF to MF and back again you can use the updated Auto/Manual focus mode switch which quite surprisingly worked better than I originally thought. It can be moved quite easily (once you get used to it) with the hand supporting the camera and there is no need to lock the selection unless you want to. It’s no comparison to the AFS solutions, but at least you have that option, even though it’s a dated design.
As we have already seen, the optics that needs to be moved for AF are heavy and that’s one of the reasons of its slow AF performance. The same issue applies to zooming, which also requires the movement of a lot of glass, so it requires some muscle to turn the zoom ring which can be frightening at first if you are used to a small zoom like the AFS 24-120mm.
An issue I had with my copy is that the AF mechanism within the lens seems at times to couple with the zoom ring. This is quite annoying and I usually come across it when supporting my lens with my left hand (tripod collar removed).
On a lighter note, one accessory that can complement this lens (and the AFS 300mm f/4 as well), is the Canon close-up 500D filter. This looks like a regular screw on filter, but is of a high quality two lens design that helps to reduce the minimum focus distance. Although the lens can shoot some remarkable close-ups, with the addition of the 500D, those butterflies really jump of the page.
If you are not happy with your results, remember to use the fastest shutter speeds possible and double-check the focusing accuracy. The important thing to remember is that this lens can deliver some excellent results, though it may require extra work from the photographer and some extra light as well. But thankfully it’s not as bad as shooting with an old MF lens. It does offer AF, though a bit slow, it does offer a quick manual focus override (sort of), it has VR (first generation), and carries some great optics with some very smooth bokeh all packaged in a well built casing.
The AF 80-400mm VR is not an action lens; it’s a nature-trekking lens.
Happy shooting!
PS: You can find more info on my blog at http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/
Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6D VR ED
Please keep your comments in line with the guidelines for this board. OT comments will be removed without notice.
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[1] 2
Re: Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6D VR ED
Maybe I just need more practise; I'm a wide-angle man, really.
Re: Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6D VR ED
Resume: clearly sharper
than the 3rd-partxy lenses I tested it against, but the rest is so outdated 
Nikon needs to update this with proper AF/MF-switching and the latest VRII(I)!
Pronto!
Re: Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6D VR ED
How long have you used the item? 1 week!
What did you specifically buy it for? I wanted something with long reach without making me change lenses all the time. It also should work with a future FX-body. I was looking for sharpness, contrast and good IS and perhaps (if possible) a magnification below 1:5.
Has the lens lived up to your expectations? Only in the sharpness/contrast-department. VR + AF/MF-switch were outdated. Focussing was slooow.
Would you recommend the item to others? Nope! I gave the lens back and am eagerly awaiting the revised version coming soon
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Re: Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6D VR ED
I don't recommend this lens, as I feel the sharpness is sub-par for a Nikkor, and for less money the Sigma 50-500 is clearly superior in reach and sharpness though not contrast.
Paul
Re: Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6D VR ED
Re: Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6D VR ED
You are aware this is the first generation VR from Nikon, and they're not likely to use the first generation ever again. Most people find it not the best VR they've experienced, so your preference is interesting.
The lens will be at its sharpest with VR off on a stable tripod. With VR off, locked down on a tripod that easily handles my 400mm f/2.8 AFS-II it lacks critical sharpness.
In those conditions, it simply isn't nearly as sharp at 400mm as the Sigma 50-500mm lens is at 500mm. You can compare the MTF charts from both manufacturers to verify this and you will see that the 80-400 simply doesn't perform exceptionally well at 400mm. It's not a bad lens, it simply isn't a great lens. Since those lenses are both from the same era, many bird and airshow shooters on budgets had one or both and compared them- and the Nikkor always lost.
When I talk about limitations in quality, they're simply not things you can "work around-" because they're inherent in the physics and the optical design of the lens. For a pro-sumer Nikkor, this lens is sub-par at 400mm, and that's a pity because most of us would use the lens out at 400mm most of the time.
Paul
Re: Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6D VR ED
My 80-400 VR evaluation
The lockable and non-lockable M-A switch was,AFAIK, premiered on the 80-400VR. With this switch,you are not required to LOCK into either the M or into A focus, but can set the switch to allow button-free switching between M and A modes,and you'll usually,but not always, want to set the lens to that mode, so you can shift between MF and AF without need of pressing the small chrome release button in order to turn the selector ring. Alternately, I sometimes lock it to Manual-Only focusing. This lens's focusing slicks up after a couple years of heavy use. The focusing is GOOD in manual focusing mode,throughout much of the range,and the pitch of the focusing is not so hair-trigger that you get a lot of mis-focusing when focusing by hand. It has a lot of marked focusing distances,with Infinity, 40 ft,20 ft, 15 ft, 12 ft, 10 ft, 9 ft, 8 ft all separated by a goodly number of degrees. This lens is very usable in manual focusing mode between 40 feet and 8 feet with repeatable manual focus,in decent light. In good light, it's easy to manually focus this lens,especially at longer FL's.
For stadium use like on American football played during the daylight hours,with the AF action far away and without much change in distance, this lens is good.But on the sidelines, where focus range shifts with each snap of the ball, this lens is horrible. For soccer at field level,it is usable,but frustrating and limiting. In a boat on ocean or big lake, this lens is a good performer due to VR stabilizing pretty much better than ANY non-VR lens. You can do some pseudo-macro with it using a Canon 500D filter or a Kenko 20mm extension tube and the expansive zoom range to shoot hand-held small scenes at botanical gardens,etc,with VR and autofocus and ttl flash and all that. I've shot the Sigma 80-400 OS on a D200 a little bit; the Sigma is a much better AF lens in terms of AF,and handling and design. The 80-400 demands a D1 or D2 camera for fast-action sports like soccer, where it is only marginally competent. It has good reach,for when you are confined to one location,and need stabilization. It's not super-sharp above 340mm or so, but it is a "real" 400mm. Its best use is when you need VR,like in a boat,or when you're huffing and puffing a bit but still need long-range views. If you need to stand in ONE place, like at a zoo railing, or a botanical garden,or are stuck in a stadium seat or aboard a train or boat, you have a long range zoom and VR. Going whale-watching? Going salmon fishing? VR is a huge bonus there,aboard watercraft on ocean swells. It's kind of clunky,but it is useful for when you need just one,long zoom and when stabilization can make a difference. For scenic type shots,or when you want to isolate things at quite some distance,and when AF speed and AF sureness is not a make or break deal, this lens is useful. If you can manually focus well, that is a plus with the 80-400. I often pre-establish the general focus in MF, and then nudge the ring into AF. I think the VR works better with AF system engaged. NO doubt the 80-400's AF performance is sub-optimal on D70-type bodies.
This lens demands a pro-grade AF system to be called "good" at AF. It has a lot of AF quirks and limitations,and you need to understand its area is slow-speed,small-f/stop work,where focus stays in one zone, OR when you need VR to counteract wind or boat/car motion. At some windsurfing places for example,and at many salmon fishing places, the LENS's sharpness isn't all that critical, but VR can be a huge boost to counteract all the inherent instability of the shooting platform. Used ones cost $900-$950, the Sigma 80-400 is priced similarly,and my initial try of the Sigma was BIF on ospreys,and I felt that the Sigma focused a lot more surely, and just better, on a D200 than the 80-400 could do. I've shot 30,000 frames + on the 80-400 over five full years,on multiple bodies. It has its place. It's quirky. It's long. It's portable. It will work with Kenko AF tubes. It's got VR,and many times VR is far,far more important than optical sharpness,which is overrated sometimes.
Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6D VR ED with a D3
I now have both the D300 and D3 and can see very little difference between the two when using the 80-400VR apart from the crop factor. Does this mean that the D3 and D300 have the same motor? The D3 does not seem to have as much 'grip' on the lens as the D2X had.
Strangely enough, I find that the D50 and the 80-400VR work very well together. It is a bit slow, but the images are great.
Re: Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6D VR ED
Even at 400mm my lens is a good performer, but it tops just below that. It has brilliant sharpness and saturation. I am extremely critical on sharpness, using a fixed focus 500 for long-lens nature photography and being spoilt by splendid lenses such as the 200mm micro, but this lens has given me most bang for the buck on assignment, particularly shooting events where it is a fantastic lens for shooting portraits (across long distances) of people who are unaware that they are beoing photographed, and travelling, where it can replace a hell of a lot of glass. (I only take a a D300 plus backup, a 17-55, my 80-400, a 105mm micro and a 50mm 1.4 when shooting travel assignments).
Yes, the slow AF is annoying and birds in flight are not an option, but any attacks on this lens should focus on just that. The rest works, the range is lovely, the portability very good, it's as unobtrusive as a lens of this calibre can get, and image quality is - I'm sorry - brilliant. Where it wasn't, I have always been able to trace back my steps and found out what I had done wrong. I have many tack sharp shots taken at 400mm (600mm on a D300) hand-held (!!!) to prove it.